Triana is a neighborhood and administrative district in the city of Seville (Spain) that lies on the west bank of the Guadalquivir river. Like other neighborhoods that were historically split from the main city, it was known as an arrabal. Triana is placed in an almost-island between two branches of the Guadalquivir, narrowly linked to the mainland in the north. Other two districts are also placed in this city area, Los Remedios to the south and La Cartuja to the north.
Residents of Triana have been traditionally named trianeros. They have a strong feeling of identity and sentimentally consider the neighborhood to be different from the rest of Seville.[1] Triana has many hallmarks such as a traditional pottery industry, a strong flamenco culture, and its own festivals. Indeed, Triana plays an important role in the Seville culture and tradition.
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Triana past has been traditionally considered as a Roman colony founded by the emperor Trajan, who was born in the nearby city of Italica. The name Triana would be derived from the supposed original denomination Trajana. Other authors consider the name as a mixed language compromise formula, Tri from Latin, meaning "three", and ana from Celtiberian, meaning "river", since in this area the Guadalquivir river would split in three branches. A last hypothesis would be the derivation of "Triana" from the Latin expression Trans amnem, meaning "those beyond the river".[1]
The first settlements in Triana area are dated from Roman period.[2] During Muslim rule the neighborhood greatly developed around a castle built at 10th century. Triana's importance for the city was due to its strategic position between the cereal, vine, and olive tree fields from the Aljarafe region, being the road to Huelva, harbour of the city and the last defense of Seville from the west before the city-walls. The construction of a bridge joining Triana and Seville in 1171 during the reign of Caliph Abu Yaqub Yusuf, strongly helped the development of the neighborhood. It was a bridge made of boats (puente de barcas, literally, boat-bridge). The importance of Triana and its defensive role leaded Ferdinand III of Castile to destroy the castle of Triana and the bridge before taking Seville in 1248.
During Castile's rule, the castle of Triana was the seat of the Orders of Saint George, changing the name as Castillo de San Jorge (Castle of Saint George), and becoming the first church of the neighborhood. Later, in 1481, under the Catholic Monarchs rule, it was the seat of the Spanish Inquisition until 1785.[2] In 1854 was built the current bridge, Puente de Isabel II, main icon of Triana.
Since Triana is closely placed to the Guadalquivir, floodings frequently ruined the neighborhood, as Triana lacked any kind of defense against the river. During floodings, Triana inhabitants had to take refuge at the Castillo de San Jorge and Santa Ana church. The main flooding were at 1435, 1440, 1545, and 1554.[2] Remodelation of the Guadalquivir channel system during the second half of the 20th century eventually finished with this hazard.
Triana was traditionally populated by sailors and potters, but also by construction workers, and industrialists. Also, many bull-fighters, and flamenco singers and dancers lived in the neighborhood. Triana also housed a large population of Romani people, sited at the street known as Cava de los Gitanos (today Pagés del Corro), but they were displaced because of the building interests at 70's.[3]
Triana is joined to Seville by way of the Isabel II bridge (popularly known as Puente de Triana, literally "Triana Bridge"). It was constructed between 1845 and 1852 by Gustavo Steinacher and Ferdinand Bennetot. It has on its west side a small Moorish Revival chapel built by Aníbal González in 1927. Both together constitute the most important symbol of the neighborhood. They were declared national monument at 1976, after a proposal of demolition.[4][5] At the southern side of the bridge is placed the Triana market, built in 2005 but also inspired in Moorish Revival style. The remains of the Castillo de San Jorge are placed in the basement of this building,[6] which is now home to educational exhibits relating to the history of the Inquisition.[7]
The traditional gate to Triana from the bridge is the Altozano square, with the modern monuments to Juan Belmonte bullfighter and Flamenco art. It continues into San Jacinto street, a pedestrian commercial street that crosses through the historical quarter from east to west. Is is named by the monumental San Jacinto church, built in 1676 by Matías de Figueroa for the Dominican order.[8]
San Jorge and Castilla streets are the main axis to the north. Some interesting landmarks in this area are the Callejón de la Inquisición ("Inquisition alley"), that opens narrowly to the river, the Moorish Revival building of the old Fábrica de Cerámica Santa Anta ("Santa Ana pottery factory"), future pottery museum,[9] the Baroque Parroquia de la O ("Church of Our Lady of the O"), built between 1697 and 1702, and the El Cachorro chapel, seat of the homonymous Holy Week brotherhood.
To the south, and from Altozano square, Pureza is the main street that cross through the historical quarter. Here it is found the Santa Ana church, sentimentally considered the Cathedral of Triana. It was the first Catholic temple built in Seville after Muslim rule ended in the city in 1248, mixing early Gothic and Mudéjar styles. It was constructed by order of Alfonso X, and it contains an impressive retablo made by Pedro de Campaña.[10] Another interesting places in this street are the Capilla de los Marineros ("the Sailors' chapel"), seat of the popular brotherhood knows as La Esperanza de Triana ("Our Lady of Hope of Triana"), and the Casa de las Columnas ("House of Columns"), where the first university of sailors of Seville was placed.
Finally, it should be underlined the Betis street, located along the river. It houses many of the city's most popular discotecas. It also offers what might be considered the best panoramic view of Seville's city center.
Triana traditionally had a large population of Romani people, who have usually lived in corrales, or communal homes. A corral is a building organized around a patio, which used to have a central fountain. The neighbors lived in the individual rooms opened to this communal patio. This image of Triana is no longer accurate, and most of the corrales have disappeared during latter 20th century due to building interests. Those that currently persist are scattered through the neighborhood and strictly protected as cultural and ethnographic heritage. Among them, it should be cited in Alfarería street the numbers 85 and 8-10 (from 19th century and 1913-1914 respectively), in Castilla street the numbers 7 (1907–1910) and 88A (1918), and the house named Corral Herrera in Pagés del Corro street (from 1909).[11]
The Holy Week religious processions in Triana have a distinct character compared to those in the city center of Seville. Two of the most popular are La Esperanza de Triana ("Our Lady of Hope of Triana") and "El Cachorro" (literally "The Puppy"). The latter reflects the nickname of a sculpture of the dying Christ. It is said that the sculptor Ruiz Gijón, looking for a source of inspiration, saw the gypsy nicknamed Cachorro dying after a stabbing. He made the sculpture so similar to him that people realized the similarity and started to call the Christ by the gypsy's nickname: "El Cachorro".
Between 21 and 26 July, the Velá Santana is celebrated on Betis Street. It is the city's second most important fair after the Feria de abril de Sevilla, although it is much more older, dated from 13th century.[12] Here people drink sherry wine and dance sevillanas, a type of folk dance. Eating roasted sardines is also a popular activity during that fair. The cucaña is a popular competition during this celebration: people try to take a prize from the top of a greasy pole over the river.
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